Out of Africa

Recently, we took a trip somewhere I never thought I would go, South Africa. We spent three incredible weeks traveling around the cape, and my head is still spinning! In fact, I’m not even sure I can do it justice in this blog….but I will give it a try. Those of you who have been to Africa, l know you understand.

 

Our trip started in Cape Town, which is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It is located at the foot of Table Mountain, which has been included on the list of ‘wonders of the world.’ The vibe along the waterfront is energetic and fun, and as we strolled along we were certainly not the only ones swept up in the enthusiasm of the crowd!

We had a few places on our list of restaurants to try on the trip, and the first one was Pier Restaurant. We enjoyed an outstanding lunch that was as creative as it was delicious.

Sourdough bread and spread
Smoked mussels
House made crackers
Yellowfin tuna
Treasure Chest (desserts)

Table Mountain beckoned in the distance, so of course we had to go see it for ourselves. Walking along the top was like walking on another planet: the views over the city, the ocean and the countryside were incredible. At that moment, I had no idea that Africa was going to seep into my blood like the mist that swirled around us (aka the “tablecloth”). It was indeed just the beginning of the visual feast that is South Africa, with many incredible ‘dishes’ to come!

Table Mountain
Cable car up to the top
Lion’s Head

After Cape Town, we flew up to Port Elizabeth, which was a jumping off point for our safari. We chose Shamwari, a private game reserve and one of the largest private conservation initiatives in Southern Africa. We stayed at the flagship lodge, Sindile, (meaning ‘survivor’, and named after one of the reserve’s beloved rescue leopards) in beautiful luxury tents set on a ridge. The view over the river and plains was breathtaking, and the water hole below attracted a daily migration of animals that was so fun to watch.

Sindile

It is impossible to describe the feeling of settling in to sleep at night to the sound of lions roaring … it felt as if they were right outside the tent!

Our tent

Every morning and late afternoon, our private ranger took us out to see the wildlife. It was amazing and exhilarating and sometimes downright scary! We also got the chance to visit the wildlife rehab center on site, as well as the sanctuary where lions and leopards that have suffered horrendously at the hands of man are able to live out the rest of their lives in peace.

Our ride
Fresh kill!
Lonely cheetah (lost his brother)
So many elephants!
Coffee break

After Shamwari, we made our way along the Garden Route back towards Cape Town. The scenery along the way was absolutely beautiful, with farms and fynbos (the Cape’s indigenous flora) stretching as far as the eye could see. I thought the United States was big, but it doesn’t hold a candle to South Africa!! The landscape morphed into lush forested mountains, and we crossed over bridges that spanned steep caverns below. Along the route, we stopped in Plettenberg (‘Plett’) and Wilderness (don’t you just love that name) in hotels perched high above the Indian Ocean. The views and hospitality were stellar. We hiked a bit, watched for whales (I spotted a mother and calf at breakfast!) and ate more delicious food.

Plettenberg Hotel
Plettenberg Bay
Hiking near Plett
Tough getting uphill sometimes!
Our hotel room in Wilderness
Wilderness sunset

After Wilderness, we continued south and drove into the interior for a bit before making our way along a dusty gravel road which brought us to De Hoop Nature Reserve. Only three hours east of Cape Town, it seemed a world away, where the mountains and the ocean flank 34,000 hectares of beaches, dunes, wetlands and fynbos. The Reserve is at the southern tip of Africa, and incredibly, it is one of only six floral Kingdoms of the World – and also a World Heritage Site. It is a prime location for spotting migrating whales, but our guide told us that unfortunately there weren’t very many this year. In fact, the numbers were down from well over a thousand last year to just fifty-something this year.

Sand boards (why didn’t we have these in Saudi?)
My first attempt.
Gin tonics after sand boarding.

After all that nature, we were ready for some serious wine tasting, and our last stop was Franshhoek, one of the most beautiful valleys I’ve ever seen. We stayed in the fabulous Leeu Estates, which not only produces its own wine but also features local artists both on the grounds and in the lovely gallery on site.

Art Gallery

We had two divine tasting menus during our stay: one in La Petite Colombe (which was next to the gallery) and one in Epice, located in town. Both restaurants are in the same group as The Pier Restaurant (Colombe) and I can’t say enough about them. My mouth is watering just remembering the incredible food!

But let’s not forget about the wine….there are so many great vineyards in Franschhoek!

I’ll leave off with some of my favorite photos from the trip…..

Penguins!
Baboons!
Oops!
Zebras! (my favorite)
Dassies
Giraffe!

Have you been to South Africa? If so, I’d love to hear your favorite spots! I’m already planning my next trip. 🙂

Categories: Travel | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment
 
 

THE EDGE OF CHAOS

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about creativity and how to live a more creative life, and at the same time wondering if that is even possible for me. Yes, I have an unfinished novel on my computer waiting for attention, but I only attack it in fits and starts. I might go several months without even thinking about it, and then I’ll spend days ensconced in research and writing, not wanting to do anything else.

I’ve also got a sketch pad and a set of beautiful colored pencils in a drawer, and I often get ideas (like when I visited the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueras a few days ago) but I never seem to get around to actually sketching or drawing.

Dalí Theatre-Museum, Figueras

I’ve also been thinking about my life, and how it often seems a bit chaotic. Not on the outside, mind you, but in my head mostly. To the observer, I’m sure it looks very serene and comfortable. And it often is. But whenever things get too predictable, it’s as if an internal tornado starts spinning around in my head and my thoughts and feelings get all stirred up. At those moments, I feel out of control and may likely say or do something that upsets the balance around me. I admit, I find too much predictability boring.

Concepto dibujado a mano de una: vector de stock (libre de regalías) 1743990026 | Shutterstock

And, like often happens when you keep yourself open to things, I came across an article that addressed this very topic! It was about how chaos and predictability in life are not necessarily mutually exclusive. Rather, the human mind, programmed as it is to predict, actually needs chaos to be able to thrive. And this is where creativity comes in. The article stated that one of the latest big theories in neuroscience is that although humans are fundamentally creatures of prediction, creativity is not only not at odds with that, but actually goes hand in hand with improving our predictive power. “Life itself, in this view, is one big process of creatively optimizing prediction as a survival strategy in a universe otherwise tending toward chaos.”

According to Mark Miller, a cognitive scientist at the University of Toronto, the human brain has evolved to “seek out the edge of informational chaos” and it is in that zone that predictive models begin to break down – and make space for learning. Art and creativity can bring us to this so-called edge of chaos by causing us to reevaluate ourselves and rethink the world around us. Imagine: when you see a beautiful painting or hear a particular piece of music, or when you come across a passage in a book that moves you, it can actually alter how you think about yourself …. and even the world. The creative experience makes way for learning. How wonderful!

So, in spite of its negative connotation, chaos is not necessarily a bad thing. The big takeaway for me, besides how important art and creativity are, is that one of the best ways to become healthier, more adaptive (and creative) creatures is to regularly expose ourselves to different kinds of uncertainty (read as chaos). So chaos in itself is not necessarily bad… what a relief!

I attribute my dislike of predictability to being a ‘Third Culture Kid’ – I was born in Saudi Arabia to American parents and spent my formative years there. I grew up in an unpredictable place and was exposed to so much in a short time, including different cultures and experiences. I travelled a lot as a child, and in my early twenties I continued to travel extensively, looking for that elusive place where I thought I might fit in (after I was no longer able to return to Saudi Arabia, the only home I had ever known). I felt like a square – make that a star-shaped – peg trying to fit into a round hole. I never got too attached to places or things, and I’ve often wondered if there was something wrong with that. But I’ve finally come to the realization: my ‘happy place’ is not a place after all. It is that sweet spot between predictability and uncertainty; in other words, the edge of chaos. And what’s more: it is in that fiery chaos that lies the spark of creativity, which is just waiting for me to blow on it and bring it to life.

Tell me your thoughts on the subject…I’d love to hear them!

Categories: Think About it, Writing | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments
 
 

Paradise Found

Picture yourself on a private island, with all the luxuries of a first-class resort: beautiful accommodations, all-inclusive gourmet cuisine, turquoise water, pristine beaches. Surrounded by nature. No light pollution. The only sounds are the calls of birds and monkeys. That is Wa Ale (pronounced wah ah lay).

If you are looking for something a little different – something other than the same old luxury vacation with the same generic rooms, the same buffet breakfasts, the crowded bars and pools – then Wa Ale is the place for you. Believe me when I tell you, you won’t be disappointed! You will feel like you are in a James Bond film as you land at the tiny airport in Ranong, Thailand and then driven to the port, whisked through customs before taking a short boat ride to the nearby port in Myanmar, where you will be greeted by Wa Ale staff who will handle all your paperwork. Once through customs, you will embark on a speed boat, where you will have tasty snacks waiting, to make the roughly two-hour journey to the resort. It’s entirely up to you if you want to stretch out and nap on the comfy seats or soak up the beauty of the chain of islands, the fishing boats, and the sea life along the way.

One of the resort’s three piers

Wa Ale is the ultimate beach paradise. Accessible only by boat, it is located in the Lampi Marine National Park, in the Myeik Archipelago off the coast of Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). It is not only a stress-free zone for humans…it is a haven for marine life as well. Every detail about the place has been painstakingly thought out, in order to provide guests with the chance to enjoy the natural jungle environment while leaving only the gentlest of footprints. No trees were cut down to build Wa Ale. Water is sourced from the island’s natural springs and treated with a filtration system. Electricity is generated from the plentiful sunlight. It’s as natural as you can get and still enjoy all the perks of a top notch resort.

The walk from the dining pavilion to the villas

Accommodations include eleven ‘villas’ that stand just back from the sea, enjoying the breezes that flow off of the crystal clear water. The villas are actually South African safari tents, which contain beautifully designed, spacious sleeping and living areas. During the day, the air flows in and around the tents. At night, sheer curtains offer privacy while still allowing the air to pass through and the murmur of the waves to lull guests to sleep. There are also three ‘tree houses’ that are elevated to provide unique views of both the foliage and the sea. Plans are in the works to complete an even more private lodge with its own kitchen for larger groups.

Our villa
Beautifully designed living area
The backyard

In spite of its secluded location, you never feel isolated at Wa Alé. It’s more like you have stumbled on a secret hideaway that only a few people know about. The staff caters to each guest as if he or she was the only one on the island. Activities include guided hikes, paddle boarding, kayaking, snorkeling, yoga, personal training, and sightseeing boat rides (which sometimes involve picking up fresh seafood from local fishing boats). There is even a private barbecue on one of the surrounding islands. Dives can be arranged for an extra charge, as can spa services.

Arriving for our private picnic
Ready and waiting
A refreshing drink before lunch

My main goal at Wa Ale was to just enjoy the peace and quiet and take a break from social media. My itinerary included kayaking through the island’s incredible mangrove forest; birdwatching; swimming all alone in the turquoise water just steps from my villa; yoga at the ‘Jungle Gym’ (an elevated platform hidden in the trees just off the beach). And I got one of the best massages of my life while surrounded by monkeys chattering in the treetops.

It’s good to be in the back!
Our guide through the mangroves (with his dog Lucky)
An elevated platform for bird watching

And the food! Fish and clams straight off the fishing boats. Fresh, local produce. Need I say more?

Clamming boat
Fresh clams
Dinner

Alas, while on the island, I had hoped to find one of the beautiful, sweet smelling flowers for which the resort was named. Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to spot any. I hope to return one day and try again.

Beautiful, but not the one

Wa Ale has claimed a very special place in my heart. I promise that it will do the same for you, but be forewarned: once you visit Wa Ale, you will never want to go anywhere else.

Categories: Think About it, Travel | Tags: , | 4 Comments
 
 

Olive Oil Tasting in Mallorca

We had a fantastic time on an olive plantation this week, helping our dear friend celebrate her birthday! Aubocassa is a place with a long and interesting history, dating back to the 13th century. Located just outside the city of Felanitx, the site was originally named Albocásser, derived from the Arabic words Albu-Kasi (father of Kasi).

Aubocassa
One of the owner’s dogs

Long ago, it was a safe haven, offering food, water, shelter and a place to worship regardless of religion. There were originally two palms standing over the building, indicating food and water to passersby.

The Renaissance chapel (which is being restored) ….the owner’s dogs run freely on the property and love to accompany the tours!

Like many estates, Aubocassa changed hands many times, going from local ownership to nobility, before it was subdivided and portions were sold off. The current owners originally intended to plant vines to produce wine, but after soil analysis they decided to plant olive trees instead.

Arbequina olive trees
Look at all the olives!
The olives are harvested early, when they are still green, to extract the most nutrients from the fruit

Our tour guide, Patricia, was so knowledgeable and entertaining. We learned so much about the history and process of making olive oil, and much more. The nearby village of Petra, for example, sent missionaries to California, where they established missions all along the coast.

Learning about the trees

The best part, of course, was tasting the smooth and silky, unfiltered Aubocassa olive oil. It just sings in your mouth! And then we got to taste some of the wines that the owner produces on the mainland, in Rioja and the Ribera del Duero. We went wine tasting in that area last year but did not find his particular vineyard, unfortunately. The wines were all very good.

Wines and olive oil
We especially liked the Roda I and Corimbo I.
Patricia reading out the description of the Circión, “the crown” of the wines (and not cheap).

We are so lucky to have discovered this place …. and to have made a new friend on the island!

Categories: Delectables, Mallorca | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment
 
 

From Bored to Bordeaux

This year, I decided to celebrate my birthday in France! I wanted to do something special: a pampering at Les Sources De Caudalie Spa. The Caudalie line derives much of its ingredients from grapes, and supposedly they are loaded with anti-aging properties. So what better place to treat myself than somewhere with a spa AND a vineyard!

We touched down in Bordeaux on Easter Sunday, and after a lovely lunch in a brasserie in the city, we made our way to Martillac. It was a beautiful drive, and we had an interesting welcoming committee just before arriving at the hotel.

Animal Farm Welcome

The spread that greeted us was a trifecta of splendor: Hotel+Spa+Winery.

And as if that isn’t enough, there is a Michelin restaurant on the premises (where I enjoyed my birthday dinner). The meal was outstanding, but the carafe and pouring of the wine almost stole the show.

Our sommelier

The Chateau Haut Lafitte vineyard is just across the street from the hotel, beyond a whimsical statue of a hare (aptly named “Hospitality”). The owners’ private wine cellar is amazing, located underneath the tasting room. The wine we tried was divine, but unfortunately they don’t ship to Mallorca so we did not end up buying any.

Chateau Haut Lafitte Private Cellar

If it’s good enough for the King and Queen, it’s good enough for us!

Charles and Camilla

Our next stop was Saint Émilion, a charming little town surrounded by something like 900 vineyards! We had lunch at Logis de la Cadène, the oldest restaurant in the town (1848!) and also a Michelin restaurant. The dishes were so creative and tasted every bit as good as they looked!

Amuse Bouche
Mushrooms from the area
Main dish (poulet)
Dessert

Our first wine tasting was one kilometer outside Saint Émilion at Chateau Franc Mayne, where we learned all about “Grand Cru Classé.” It is a prestigious classification that started in Saint Émilion in the 1950s. The vineyard sits on a limestone plateau and its cellar is an old stone quarry, where stone was extracted centuries ago to build houses, chateaux and churches in the surrounding area.

Our second wine tasting was at Chateau Fonplégade, where we were referred to by a member – it is a private vineyard owned by an American, Denise Adams, who has managed to infiltrate the wine culture in France. The vineyard is named for the 13th century fountain that sits above the chateau, and which has not run out of water since it was built! The vineyard is not only organic – it is biodynamic – a form of agriculture that aims to improve the earth to a better condition than when it first began to be farmed. It is based on ideas developed by Rudolph Steiner, the first person to introduce organic agriculture. (He also established the Waldorf Schools and Anthroposophical medicine. I have studied Anthroposophy and his ideas are very esoteric.)

Chateau Fonplégade

Our tour of the property was so much fun, and very educational. The wine tasting was spectacular, and we left wanting more and hoping to return for a harvest so we can meet the proprietor!

Our last two days were spent in Bordeaux. It is such a beautiful city! We shopped, drank great wine, ate fabulous food, admired the architecture, and basically soaked in that famous “je ne sais quoi” that is France.

Luckily, it’s a quick one-hour flight from Palma to Bordeaux, so we will be back! Au revoir #Bordeaux!

Categories: Travel, Wine, Thou Art My Red Muse | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment
 
 

2024 ~ The Year of The Dragon

Hello dear readers! In just a few days, on February 10th, the Chinese Lunar New Year will begin. Are you ready?? I am!

The past several weeks, I have been mulling over my writing, tossed between guilt for the lack of progress and anxiety over what direction to go in my current novel.

I desperately need to 1) get motivated and 2) get focused. I feel like my mind is like a kaleidoscope: full of all these beautiful patterns ebbing and flowing, but with no discernible picture. Recently, however, I have been feeling a shift in the energy around me, and I attribute this to the changing of the guard, so to speak. We are leaving the calm introspectiveness of the Year of the Rabbit and entering into a more energetic year.

The dragon is the only mythological creature in the Chinese zodiac. It symbolizes good luck, strength and power. Some of its characteristics include confidence, creativity, energy and impulsiveness. The Year of the Dragon promises to bring positive changes, new opportunities, and also challenges. But we can take the reins and choose how we handle all these. Those born under the sign of the dragon are believed to be showered with success….. hopefully, 2024 will sprinkle some of that good fortune on the rest of us!

Funnily enough, G’s New Year’s Resolution on December 31st was “to travel more.” And as someone born under the sign of the Tiger, that is exactly what is in store for him this year! We already have four trips planned in the next four months. I am a Snake, and although I didn’t have a resolution per se, I decided to learn another language (I’m currently learning Spanish). And guess what the year predicts for Snakes? Learning new things!!

Money Bags
Money Bags

Chinese people believe that what you do at the beginning of the year will affect the coming months. Energy out = energy in. So be kind and compassionate. Be loving and patient. And it doesn’t hurt to incorporate some “lucky” food into your New Year’s Eve dinner on February 9th. As for me, I’m going to be making “Money Bags” (dumplings). And maybe some spicy Dragon Chicken, too.

I don’t know about you, but I am planning to jump on that beast and ride it high and hard in the coming months… I hope you all join me and let’s make 2024 our most creative year ever!

The Year of the Dragon

What are your thoughts? I’d love to hear them!

Categories: Feng Shui | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

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